Valloire

Spread across three valleys, the whole area offers extensive skiing for just about all levels. Highlights include long blue-graded scenic cruises which begin high and end among pine forests. You can even follow the course of a river. It can take a little getting to know, which, of course, is all part of the appeal.

The link between two sides of the ski area is simple enough, via a choice of two lifts – the Inversins detachable chair at the top end of the valley, and the Arméra chairlift, which reaches Valmeinier 1500 across a deep gorge in a memorably-vertiginous single span.

A further plus is the provision of green-graded descents from peaks like Gros Crey (2594m), allowing less-experienced skiers to enjoy top-of-the-mountain sensations.

New for winter 2019/20 is the replacement of 2 old chairlifts by 1 new detachable 6 seater charlift called Montissot which goes up to the Grand Plateau and Château Ripaille areas. There's also a new blue piste called Primevère which drops skiers off the Grand Plateau for the return to the Brive and Séa sectors, or as the start of a long scenic blue cruise. On the Valmeinier side of the ski area, the new La Sandonière chairlift takes skiers up to a new highpoint at 2750m.

Valloire, at an altitude of 1430m has all the charm and history of a traditional working community. The mood is friendly and there’s quite a buzz after the lifts close, particularly during the annual international ice-sculpture competitions.

Above the main village of Sétaz on the route up to the Col du Galibier lie other accommodation centres around Moulin Benjamin and Les Verneys, while in the opposite direction (back towards the Col du Télégraphe) is Le Hameau. All are served by shuttle-buses, although the centres on the Galibier side have chairlifts to the skiing. A high-speed six-seater has overcome the queues which once plagued Les Verneys.

The linked ski resort of Valmeinier comprises two villages, set at 1500m (la Ville Dessus) and 1800m, with a third development (Gros Crey) set roughly midway between them. Not surprisingly, the higher, purpose-built sites well above the tree-line have a slightly separate feel. They are, however, right in the thick of the ski terrain and ski-in/ski-out, although Gros-Crey is served by a single Green-graded piste.

Young independents and budget-conscious family skiers clearly love this place, and we can see why. Older French families, too.

It’s not obsessed with sophistication, being more focused on the skiing - which we applaud – with plenty of variety and opportunities to put real mileage under your skis.

On the other hand, you can take it easy on gentle, scenic runs through forests or simply enjoy hanging out among relaxed company. It’s very convivial, and you get the sense that plenty of families return here year after year. All in all, a cheerful place to be.

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