Vars

Despite having installed its first ski-lifts way back in 1937 to exploit real big-mountain ski potential, most leisure skiers have still yet to hear about Vars. Today the piste network is linked to that of neighbouring Risoul, the resulting combined area being known as La Fôret-Blanche.

Vars enjoys international renown for its impressive freeride terrain and its purpose-built speed-skiing piste. It also offers extensive and varied intermediate terrain for all abilities, plus safe débutant areas and facilities.

There are some surpisingly long cruising runs here, including some fine, currently under-appreciated tree-lined descents on the opposite side of the valley below Peynier (2273)m. The 2750m Pic de Chabrières is accessible only by drag-lift, but rewards the effort with astonishing views and some superb descents, including a bracing drop over into Risoul.

Most of the accommodation is currently within two of the villages in the valley — the original community of Vars Sainte-Marie and the purpose-built ski village of Vars Les Claux. Until now the decision as to where to stay was one of charm versus convenience, but the construction of Le Hameau des Rennes, a whole new lift-served, chalet-style village beside the road to the celebrated 2108m Col de Vars expands the choice considerably. In terms of energy-levels, services and convenience, though, the focus is likely to remain firmly on Vars Les Claux, which although now looking a little dated, is well maintained and has a friendly atmosphere.

Most of the village activity centres around the Tourism Office (free WiFi) at the foot of the Chabrières gondola. The ESF ski school building is at the top of the adjacent car park and has direct access to some easy pistes for beginners. There is also the Eyssina New School at Point Show.

If shopping for groceries, there are several mini supermarkets well spaced throughout the village so you shouldn’t have to walk too far for supplies. Other shops and services are spread the length of the village and include ski and hire shops, gifts, interiors shops, and a good selection of restaurants and one of our favourites, the stylish Après Ski salon du thé. It’s a 10-15 minute uphill walk from the Tourist Office to Le Fournet at the upper end of Vars Les Claux or you could use the shuttle bus.

The new high-altitude village centred on Le Hameau des Rennes includes (payable) underground parking, health and fitness centre, shops and other services.

Just about everyone, really, apart from celeb-spotting shopaholics and hedonistic party animals.

Families and mixed-ability groups will appreciate the varied terrain, with the large snowpark being an attractive feature for young freestylers. The ski schools are particularly friendly and encouraging for small children and beginners.

Drag-lift-phobics can stick to the chairlifts and still access all but the very highest, most remote terrain. Intermediates will love the long cruising runs and the ease of access to a different experience over in the Risoul sector, while advanced skiers can spend time exploring the internationally-renowned freeride/off-piste terrain.

Snowboarding

Cross-Country Skiing