Vallorcine

The Chamonix Valley is big, and can be confusing to first-timers, so if that’s you then be sure to head over to the Ski Area description in our Chamonix Resort Review for a quick grounding in where the areas are and what they offer.

If you’re an intermediate skier based in Vallorcine then a quick haul on the 8-seater Télécabine de Vallorcine (the resort’s sole lift) will get you straight to the blue-graded Les Esserts (shown above). As you’ll see, it’s wide and sheltered by pine and larch forests, and connects with the base of a chairlift up to the 2250m Tête de Balme, from which you can choose between red- or blue-graded pistes over to the Les Autannes sector or down to Charamillon (1850m). From there a red-graded descent (or a gondola ride) with take you down to Le Tour (1462m).

Most of the skiing is above the tree-line, which means you have inspiring views down the valley. At the end of the day you need only ski the upper section of Les Esserts to join the gondola for a smooth ride back down to the village, or continue past the gondola to reach a long, red-graded piste which snakes its way down through woodland to a point just across the railway tracks from the gondola.

On the other hand, novice skiers will be taking a ski-school shuttle-bus to and from the safe, dedicated facilities at nearby La Poya. There’s more round at Le Tour, with direct access from the village.

If the name of Vallorcine doesn’t sound instantly familiar that’s because until relatively recently it was just a peaceful farming community at the upper end of the valley, close to the border with Switzerland. What changed everything was the construction in 2004 of a high-speed gondola lift (with a sizeable apartment-style accommodation development right beside it), which suddenly brought direct access from the valley to the pistes of the established family ski areas of Balme and Le Tour.

Things took off slowly at first, but as more skiers began to discover it (not least day-visitors who came via the rail link from Argentière, Chamonix and Les Houches) Vallorcine’s accommodation began to fill. A few seasons later this new-found popularity prompted the contruction of many more self-catering apartments and a stylish chalet-style bar/restaurant. What was always there, of course, was the cosy buffet of the Gare SNCF rail station. In winter it’s deservedly popular hangout for skiers, and in summer is equally welcoming to walkers, cyclists, etc.

As far as shopping is concerned, however, if you’re self- catering then you’ll find pretty well all you need in the self-service Super U in Argentière.

For anyone looking for a natural, unpressured setting from which to ski the Chamonix Valley, then this should fit the bill, as long as they’re prepared to drive or (the better option) use the free shuttle buses and train.

It’s also a solid choice for families with novice skiers, who will be transported by the ski school to and from nearby La Poya – a safe, friendly beginner area.

Intermediates will love the wooded lower runs, although before long the views along the valley from above the tree-line will tempt them to explore a lot more terrain elsewhere.

Snowboarding

Cross-Country Skiing

Handiski...