Annecy: perfectly irresistible

The stylish and dynamic lakeside town of Annecy seems to have it all. Perceived among the French as being just about the perfect place in which to live, its irresistible lakeside setting and proximity to top class ski resorts create a desirability factor comparable to that of somewhere like Geneva or Montreux.

Year-round sports

Not surprisingly, throughout the summer the sheltered lake is a popular setting for sailing and watersports, and the lakeside parkland also offers open spaces for walkers, joggers and cyclists. In summer months there’s even a bus service which transports mountain bikers to the nearby winter sports area of Le Semnoz (1700m) for a 20km descent back to the town.

The town’s profile was raised considerably by its determined bid to host the 2018 Winter Olympics, which, despite being shortlisted, ultimately proved unsuccessful. In all respects, it seemed like a strong contender, for when winter closes in, a mere half an hour’s drive is all it takes for Annecy’s weekend leisure skiers to reach popular Lake Annecy Ski Resorts like Le Grand Bornand and La Clusaz.

Not exactly, but like the real thing located considerably beyond the big mountains rising impressively at the far end of the lake, the ancient heart of Annecy preserves an abundance of medieval architecture penetrated by elegant quays and waterways. So the analogy promoted tirelessly by generations of tourism professionals is perhaps at least partly justified.

We really do mean ‘abundance’ – first-time visitors expecting to see a handful of isolated structures surviving here and there among later additions are stunned to discover virtually the whole of the old town looking and feeling (particularly at nightfall) much as it would have done centuries ago, when Annecy replaced Geneva as the capital of Savoie.

All of which makes Annecy feel like the very embodiment of the Alpine retro-chic style which in various forms has proved increasingly marketable in recent years, enthusiasm for which so far shows no sign of cooling-off. Quite the reverse, in fact, as a combination of increased prosperity and a steady growth in activity holidays draws visitors back to the mountain regions of France long after the ski season has ended. And when they leave they want to take a little Savoyard item or two back with them to keep the memories alive until their next visit. Catering for them are increasing numbers of designer boutiques and (on the last Saturday of each month) regular brocante and bric-à-brac markets.

Not that the local economy is totally dependent on revenue from tourism, however welcome its contribution. For all its pervasive sense of history, Annecy (birthplace of the Carrefour Group) remains a vibrant commercial centre, thanks to the presence of companies like bearing manufacturer SNR Roulements and sports equipment giant Salomon, founded here in 1947 and still a major employer despite the company’s ski production having recently moved overseas. Adding to the term-time energy levels are around 11,000 students, some 4,500 of whom are based at the Université de Savoie’s campus in Annecy-le-Vieux.